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Heat Pump Cost to Run: A Simple Formula + Examples with Real Electric Rates

Erin KesslerReviewed by Sofia NguyenMar 15, 20265 min read
Illustration of a heat pump with a simple math formula icon and an electric bill symbol, in a clean teal and orange style with no text.

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If you’re searching “heat pump cost to run,” you’re probably trying to answer:

  • What will this do to my monthly bill?
  • How does it compare to gas, propane, or oil?
  • Why do people get wildly different answers online?

The reason answers vary: running cost depends on your electric rate, your home’s heat demand, and real-world heat pump efficiency (which changes with temperature and system design).

For a fast comparison you can customize, use our calculator:
Heat Pump vs Furnace Calculator

TL;DR (quick takeaways)

  • The most important input is your electric rate from your bill (not a national average).
  • A heat pump’s efficiency changes with temperature; don’t assume one number for the whole winter.
  • The biggest “hidden” driver is often home heat demand (air leaks, insulation, duct losses), not the equipment.
  • Use a calculator to compare fuels and assumptions consistently:
    Heat Pump vs Furnace Calculator

The simplest way to estimate running cost (without pretending it’s exact)

Here’s a practical method that’s accurate enough for decisions, even if it won’t match every day.

Step 1) Get your electric rate (from your bill)

Find your all-in rate in $/kWh (or compute it as total bill / kWh used).

Step 2) Estimate your heat demand (the “how much heat do I need?” part)

You can approximate demand by:

  • Using historical fuel usage (if you have it)
  • Using a home energy audit estimate
  • Using a conservative range and testing sensitivity (best for planning)

Step 3) Use a realistic efficiency assumption

Heat pumps are described with metrics like HSPF2, COP, etc. The key practical point:

Efficiency is not constant. It depends on outdoor temperature and the system setup.

If you don’t know what to assume, use a range and see how sensitive the answer is.

A quick formula (for people who want the math)

If you have an estimate of heat delivered (in BTU) and an estimated COP:

  • Electricity used (kWh) ≈ Heat delivered (BTU) ÷ (COP × 3,412)
  • Cost ≈ kWh × $/kWh

You don’t need to do this by hand—our calculator handles the comparisons:
Heat Pump vs Furnace Calculator


Two beginner-friendly examples

These examples use round numbers to show the method. Replace inputs with your own.

Example #1: “What if electricity is expensive?”

  • Electric rate: $0.25/kWh (example rate)
  • Heat demand and COP: use the calculator to test conservative efficiency assumptions

What to learn: high electric rates make envelope improvements (air sealing/insulation) even more valuable.

Example #2: “What if electricity is cheap?”

  • Electric rate: $0.12/kWh (example rate)

What to learn: at lower rates, operating cost comparisons often favor heat pumps more strongly—but sizing and duct losses still matter.

Two professional examples (where details matter)

Pro example #1: Duct losses change the answer

If ducts are in a hot attic or leaky crawlspace, you can pay for heat you don’t feel.

Fix: pair the heat pump plan with duct sealing/balancing or bring ducts inside the conditioned space when possible.

Pro example #2: Backup heat strategy changes winter cost

In colder climates, backup heat (electric resistance or other) can dominate cost during the coldest hours.

Fix: ask how backup heat is controlled and when it engages.


The 6 pitfalls that make “cost to run” estimates useless

  1. Using a generic electric rate instead of your real rate
  2. Assuming a single efficiency number for the whole season
  3. Ignoring air leakage and insulation (heat demand)
  4. Ignoring duct losses and airflow issues
  5. Ignoring backup heat behavior
  6. Comparing fuel costs without consistent assumptions

Printable checklist: inputs to gather

  • Electric rate ($/kWh)
  • Heating fuel price (if comparing)
  • Home size and insulation/air sealing status
  • Duct location (attic/crawl/basement) and condition
  • Heat pump type (ducted/ductless) and backup heat plan

Store the inputs in one place:
My Plan


If you only do 3 things

  1. Use your real electric rate from your bill.
  2. Test a range of efficiency assumptions (don’t trust one number).
  3. Reduce heat demand first if your home is leaky or under-insulated:
    Heat Pump vs Furnace Calculator

Edge cases (where you should get professional input)

  • Complex multi-zone systems with unusual control strategies
  • Homes with serious airflow or duct design problems
  • Very cold climates where backup heat strategy is critical

Troubleshooting: “My friend’s heat pump bills are huge”

Common causes include:

  • Poor sizing and short cycling
  • Duct leakage or airflow bottlenecks
  • Backup heat running more than expected
  • A leaky home where heat demand is simply high

Sources & further reading


About this post: We wrote this to help homeowners estimate heat pump running costs with transparent assumptions. Real costs vary by climate, rate structure, home leakage, and system design—use a range and verify with real bills after installation.

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